Land of the Lost Food Traditions: A Journey Through the Northeast
The Rise and Fall of Regional Foodways
In the tapestry of American history, there was a time when regional food traditions flourished like vibrant threads. From bellywash and black cows in luncheonettes to convivial Coca-Cola gatherings, these culinary customs were an integral part of local culture. However, the advent of chain restaurants and the homogenizing forces of modern food production have led to the fading or disappearance of many of these cherished traditions.
The WPA’s Culinary Legacy
During the Great Depression, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) embarked on an ambitious project to document the eating habits of Americans. The Federal Writers’ Project, a division of the WPA, tasked writers, including literary luminaries like Eudora Welty and Zora Neale Hurston, with compiling a vast manuscript titled “America Eats.” This unpublished manuscript, recently resurrected in two books, provides a fascinating glimpse into the culinary landscape of the past.
Northeastern Delights
Mark Kurlansky’s “The Food of a Younger Land” offers a delectable selection of culinary tidbits from the Northeast region. These forgotten traditions, unearthed from the America Eats manuscript, paint a vivid picture of the region’s unique foodways.
Rhode Island’s May Breakfasts
Rhode Island’s May Breakfasts, an opulent feast served on May 1st, have their roots in ancient Roman celebrations. Cold boiled ham, creamed potatoes, and a myriad of pies were among the culinary delights on offer. These gatherings, inspired by the English, served as a symbolic welcome to the bounty of spring.
New York City’s Culinary Innovations
New York City has long been a culinary melting pot, and the city’s hotels have played a significant role in shaping American cuisine. Waldorf Salad, Lobster Newburg, and the surprisingly French-sounding Vichyssoise soup all originated in the kitchens of Manhattan’s grand hotels.
The Automat: A Mechanical Lunchroom
The Automat, a “mechanical lunchroom” that dispensed single servings of food from coin-operated cubicles, was a beloved institution in New York City. Edward O’Brien, an Automat enthusiast, extolled the virtues of this dining experience, highlighting the city’s enduring love for slot machines, good coffee, and cinnamon buns.
Rhode Island Clam Chowder: A Culinary Controversy
Rhode Island Clam Chowder, with its distinctive tomato base, is a source of culinary debate. Kurlansky reveals that this chowder, often dismissed as “Manhattan Clam Chowder” by Massachusetts residents, actually originated with Portuguese and Italian cooks in Rhode Island. The debate over its true origins continues to simmer today.
A Journey Continues
The culinary traditions of the Northeast, once vibrant and diverse, have been shaped by a confluence of factors. From the WPA’s documentation efforts to the rise and fall of iconic eateries, these traditions offer a glimpse into the evolving foodways of America. As we delve into the traditions of the South and West, we will continue to uncover the rich tapestry of American food history.