New Zealand

Questing for Calories in New Zealand’s High Country

A Foraging Adventure in the Molesworth Wilderness

Embarking on a journey into the remote Molesworth Station, the vastest farm in New Zealand, I found myself unexpectedly confronted with a dwindling food supply. This miscalculation forced me to adopt an old trick for maximizing the excitement of travel: venturing into the backcountry without sufficient sustenance.

As I cycled deeper into this untamed wilderness, a sense of exhilaration surged through me. The concerns of rationing evaporated, leaving me with a single, all-consuming goal: finding calories. The world transformed into a vast foraging playground, where every stream and meadow held the potential for sustenance.

Fishing the Wairau River for Trout

My first stop was the Wairau River, renowned for its abundant trout population. I couldn’t resist casting a line, and to my delight, a hefty four-pound trout took the bait. With dinner secured, I pressed on, my hunger gnawing but my spirits soaring.

Further upstream, I spotted a colossal trout lurking in a deep blue pool. Its massive size and elusive nature tested my patience, but I refused to give up. Finally, my efforts were rewarded with a two-pound catch, a testament to the unspoiled beauty of New Zealand’s wilderness.

At the Gates of the Old Rainbow Homestead

As I approached the Old Rainbow homestead, I was greeted by a friendly young woman who welcomed me through the gates. I couldn’t help but ask for a couple of eggs, and she generously gave me four, their yolks as golden as the sun.

With nightfall approaching, I set up camp at the Coldwater Creek campsite. As I drifted off to sleep, my stomach rumbled with anticipation for the next day’s adventures.

Venturing into the Heightening Wilderness

Dawn broke, casting a warm glow over the towering peaks that surrounded me. I continued my journey, opening and closing cattle gates as I encountered them. A placard at one of the gates described Molesworth Station as encompassing “all the beauty, heartbreak, and challenge of New Zealand’s high country frontier.”

Indeed, the landscape was breathtaking in its desolation. Granite-gray mountains loomed over me, and the cold wind whispered secrets through the valleys. Yet, amidst this harsh beauty, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of exhilaration.

A Serendipitous Encounter and a Philosophical Discussion

As I made my way to the Fowlers Camp hut, the weather took a turn for the worse. Icy rain and howling winds forced me inside to seek shelter. There, I shared the cabin with a team of government botanists who were conducting a plant survey.

Over a sip of whiskey, one of the botanists shared his thoughts on the Kyoto Protocol, questioning the effectiveness of carbon credits. “It’s like paying other nations to take up carbon so we can continue to pollute,” he said.

The Joys of Hunger and the Art of Foraging

As I ate my last slice of bread, I couldn’t help but reflect on the strange elation that hunger brought me. With no food to ration, the world simplified into a singular pursuit: finding calories.

In this state of deprivation, I found myself drawn to the discarded half apple I discovered along the road. With my pocket knife, I carved out the remaining clean bits and savored the taste of the best apple core I’d ever eaten.

Every stream and meadow became a potential source of sustenance. I searched for berries, roots, and anything else that could provide me with nourishment. The act of foraging had become an all-consuming passion, driving me to explore the wilderness with a newfound intensity.

A Well-Earned Feast

Finally, after days of relentless foraging, I spotted a promising pool on a small river. As I assembled my rod, a big trout rose to the surface as if on cue. With a swift cast, I hooked the fish and landed a two-pounder that would serve as my dinner.

I cooked the trout over my butane stove at the historic St. James homestead. It was a simple meal, but it tasted like the most delicious feast I’d ever had. With my hunger satisfied, I rolled forward, feeling lighter and more connected to the land than ever before.

The Liberation of Running Out of Food

In the end, running out of food proved to be an incredibly liberating experience. It stripped away all the indulgences and complexities of modern life, leaving me with a clear and satisfying purpose: to find sustenance.

This adventure taught me the importance of resourcefulness, the joys of simplicity, and the profound connection between humanity and nature. As I emerged from the Molesworth wilderness, I carried with me a newfound appreciation for the fragility of our food supply and the beauty of living off the land.