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Flora

Enormous Blooms: A Guide to Plants with Spectacularly Large Flowers

by Jasmine
written by Jasmine

Plants with Spectacularly Large Flowers

Eye-Catching Blooms for Your Garden

Envision a garden adorned with colossal flowers that command attention and elicit awe. From towering sunflowers to ethereal moonflowers, this article presents an array of plants that boast blooms of extraordinary size and beauty.

Sun-worshipping Giants: Sunflowers and Dahlias

Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) reign supreme when it comes to gargantuan blooms. Varieties like ‘Mammoth’ and ‘Sunzilla’ produce immense flower heads up to 16 inches in diameter, a testament to the sun’s nurturing power.

Dinner-plate dahlias (Dahlia spp.) are another sun-loving spectacle. These hybrids showcase blooms that measure at least 8 inches across, their petals adorned with vibrant hues ranging from white to purple and crimson.

Exotic Blooms: Cockscomb and King Protea

Cockscomb (Celosia argentea var. cristata) captivates with its otherworldly, coral-shaped inflorescences. Its velvety texture and footlong size make it an unforgettable addition to any flower bed.

King protea (Protea cynaroides) hails from South Africa, producing the largest flower heads of any protea species. These artichoke-like blooms can reach up to a foot in diameter, adding an exotic flair to any tropical arrangement.

Fragrant and Showy: Hydrangeas and Oriental Poppies

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) are renowned for their voluminous flower clusters, which can span up to 12 inches in diameter. Varieties like ‘Annabelle’ and ‘Incrediball’ offer stunning shades of blue, pink, purple, and white.

Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale) burst forth in late spring with extra-large blooms that often exceed 7 inches in diameter. Their ruffled petals come in a kaleidoscope of colors, including red, orange, pink, and purple.

Towering Beauties: Delphiniums and Globemaster Allium

Pacific Giant delphiniums (Delphinium elatum ‘Pacific Giant’) produce towering flower spikes adorned with 3-inch double flowers. These stately plants reach heights of up to 7 feet, making them a focal point in any border.

Globemaster alliums (Allium ‘Globemaster’) are another vertical wonder. Their massive flower heads, up to 10 inches in diameter, form striking orbs atop 3-foot stalks.

Versatile Bloomers: Hardy Hibiscus and English Roses

Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) defies the odds by surviving cold winters in USDA zones 4-5. Its captivating flowers, which can exceed 10 inches in diameter, come in a range of colors, including white, pink, and blue.

English roses (Rosa molineux) are a class of roses developed by David Austin, known for their large, full blooms and heady fragrances. Varieties like ‘Charles Darwin’ and ‘Spirit of Freedom’ produce countless petals and bloom repeatedly throughout the season.

Night-Blooming Enchantments: Sacred Lotus and Moonflower

Sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is an aquatic plant native to Asia. Its ethereal flowers, up to a foot in diameter, float gracefully above the water’s surface. While short-lived, these blooms offer a captivating spectacle for two to three months.

Moonflower (Ipomoea alba) is a nocturnal vine that unfurls its 6-inch white trumpet-shaped flowers at dusk. Its enchanting fragrance and unique blooming habit make it a favorite among night-garden enthusiasts.

Additional Large-Flowered Plants to Consider

  • Orienpet lilies (Lilium OT): Hybrids of trumpet and Oriental lilies, featuring fragrant blooms up to 15 inches in diameter.
  • Bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla): The largest-flowered of all magnolias, with blooms spanning up to 10 inches wide.
  • Camellia (Camellia japonica): Southern gardeners delight in the charm of camellias, producing flowers up to 6 inches in diameter in a variety of colors.
  • Amaryllis (Hippeastrum group): Popular holiday plants with large, trumpet-shaped flowers in a range of colors.
  • Angel’s trumpet (Brugmansia): Tropical shrubs or small trees with large, hanging trumpet-shaped flowers that can be toxic to humans and animals.
  • California giant zinnia (Zinnia elegans): Heat-tolerant and deer-resistant, these zinnias produce 4- to 6-inch flowers in a vibrant array of colors.

Enhance Your Garden with Large Flowers

These extraordinary plants offer a captivating display of size and beauty, transforming any garden into a breathtaking oasis. Whether you seek towering blooms, exotic shapes, or fragrant wonders, this curated selection provides endless possibilities to create a garden that is both awe-inspiring and unforgettable.

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Gardening

Orange Lily (Lilium bulbiferum): A Comprehensive Guide to Cultivation and Care

by Peter
written by Peter

Orange Lily (Lilium bulbiferum): A Comprehensive Guide to Cultivation and Care

Botanical Description

Orange lily, also known as Fire Lily, is a herbaceous perennial belonging to the Liliaceae family. This geophyte, native to Europe, boasts showy trumpet-shaped blooms in a vibrant orange hue. Its leaves are simple and broad, supporting a self-supporting growth form. The most distinctive feature of this species is the formation of bulbils on its stems.

Cultivation Requirements

Light:

Orange lilies thrive in dappled sun or light summer shade. For optimal growth, plant bulbs along the sunny edge of a woodland garden, positioning their roots in the shade and their heads in the sun.

Soil:

These adaptable plants prefer well-drained loamy soil rich in humus. However, they can also tolerate normal garden soil and adapt to sandy, clay, or calcareous soils.

Water:

Orange lilies have moderate watering needs. Water thoroughly about one inch per week during growth, but only if the soil feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering, as wet soil can rot lily bulbs. Excess water on foliage and flowers can also cause mildew or mold.

Fertilizer:

Feed orange lilies with a low-nitrogen blooming fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 or 7-9-5. This will promote flower development rather than excessive leaf growth. Spread the fertilizer over the roots in spring, scratching it into the soil and watering well.

Pruning:

After blooming concludes in fall, prune old leaves to maintain plant health.

Propagation:

Orange lilies can be propagated through several methods:

  • Bulbils: Gather bulbils as they begin to detach from the stems in late summer and pot them in a greenhouse until they mature sufficiently for outdoor transplantation.
  • Division: Divide young bulbs in autumn when plants are dormant. Place 2-3 bulbs in one pot prior to transplanting or plant them directly in the ground.
  • Scales: Remove bulb scales from mature bulbs and store them in a warm, dark place in a bag of moist peat. They will gradually produce bulbets.

Growing from Seed

Opinions vary on whether orange lilies can be grown from seed. While some sources claim successful germination within 30-40 days, others advise against it. If you wish to attempt it, sow seeds when ripe in a cold frame for spring germination. Alternatively, seeds can be stored in a warm/cold/warm stratification cycle for approximately 2 months each. Grow seeds in cool, shady conditions and sow thinly in a fertile medium.

Common Pests and Diseases

Orange lilies are susceptible to a few pests and diseases, including:

  • Slugs: Protect plants from slugs in early spring, as they may consume shoot tips and hinder growth.
  • Aphids: These tiny insects can infest orange lilies and feed on their sap.

FAQs

  • How long does it take for orange lily seeds to grow?

Germination time can vary. Some sources indicate 30-40 days, while others suggest that seeds may not germinate at all.

  • How many blooms does an orange lily plant produce?

One mature bulb can produce a plant with 6-7 blossoms.

  • What is the difference between orange lily (Lilium bulbiferum) and tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium, Lilium tigrinum)?

Orange lily is a European wildflower, while tiger lily is native to China and Japan. Orange lily blooms in solid orange, while tiger lily has orange petals with black or deep crimson spots. Both species are relatively easy to grow.

Additional Tips

  • Orange lily (Lilium bulbiferum) is its own cultivar. It is also known by the synonyms Lilium bulbiferum var. giganteum, Lilium bulbiferum var. chaixii, Lilium bulbiferum var. croceum, or simply L. croceum. The subspecies L. bulbiferum croceum generally does not produce bulbils.
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Gardening

Scented-Leaved Geraniums: A Comprehensive Guide to Growing and Care

by Jasmine
written by Jasmine

Growing and Caring for Fragrant Scented-Leaved Geraniums

Scented-leaved geraniums, also known as Pelargoniums, are a diverse group of fragrant plants prized for their aromatic leaves and attractive flowers. With proper care and maintenance, these versatile plants can enhance any garden or indoor space.

Types of Scented-Leaved Geraniums

There are numerous varieties of scented-leaved geraniums, each with its own distinctive fragrance and appearance. Some popular types include:

  • Apple-scented geranium (Pelargonium odoratissimum): Crisp apple scent with small white flowers
  • Chocolate mint geranium (Pelargonium tomentosum): Rich chocolate and mint aroma with round leaves
  • Mosquito plant (Pelargonium citrosa): Strong citronella scent, although not highly effective as a mosquito repellent
  • Variegated rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens ‘Variegata’): Rose fragrance with silver-edged, lacy leaves

Care and Maintenance

Light: Scented-leaved geraniums prefer full sun or partial shade. In very warm climates, afternoon shade may be beneficial to prevent leggy growth.

Soil: The soil should be well-draining and not overly rich. Rich soil can diminish the fragrance of the leaves. Scented geraniums tolerate most soil pH levels, but a slightly acidic pH of around 5.8 to 6.3 is ideal.

Water: These plants are drought tolerant and do not tolerate sitting in wet soil. Water only when the soil feels dry about an inch below the surface.

Temperature and Humidity: Scented geraniums are perennial in tropical climates and thrive in hot, humid conditions. They also perform well in dry climates and can survive short periods of light frost.

Fertilizer: Go easy on the fertilizer to maintain the plant’s fragrance. Potted plants may require more frequent fertilization with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the spring and summer.

Pruning and Propagation

Pruning: Occasional pinching and light pruning will promote bushier growth. Prune large plants back to shape in the spring or as needed during the season. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage new blooms.

Propagation: Most scented-leaved geraniums are hybrids and should be purchased as nursery plants. However, some varieties can be propagated from seed or root cuttings:

  • Seed: Sow seeds indoors in December and transplant seedlings outside after the last frost.
  • Root cuttings: Take 6-inch cuttings, remove lower leaves, and root in moist vermiculite.

Growing from Seed

Best Time: Start seeds indoors in December.

Method: Spread seeds across a tray filled with seed-starting medium and cover with 1/8 inch of soil. Keep the soil moist and provide bright light. Thin seedlings as needed. Transplant outdoors after the last frost.

Potting and Repotting

Scented-leaved geraniums grow quickly and prefer to be slightly rootbound. When repotting, choose a container only slightly larger than the previous one. An 8-inch pot is suitable for most average-sized plants.

Overwintering

Cold Climates: Bring potted plants indoors in the fall and treat as houseplants, providing plenty of bright light. Alternatively, store plants in a cool, dark place, allowing them to go dormant.

Mild Climates: Scented-leaved geraniums can overwinter outdoors in areas with mild winters. Mulch around the base of the plant for protection.

Encouraging Blooms

Sunlight: Ensure the plant receives ample sunlight for optimal flowering.

Water: Water regularly, especially during hot, dry weather.

Deadheading: Remove spent blooms to promote new flower production.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Leggy Growth: Insufficient sunlight. Move the plant to a sunnier location.

Yellowing Leaves: Overwatering. Reduce watering frequency and ensure the soil drains well.

Leaves Falling Off: Overwatering or root rot. Cut back on watering and inspect the roots for signs of rot.

FAQ

How long do scented-leaved geraniums live?

They can live for several years in mild climates or as houseplants, but typically die after one season in cold climates.

Are they good for hanging baskets?

Yes, many varieties have a trailing habit and look attractive spilling over the edge of a hanging basket.

Can I use them to make potpourri?

Yes, dry the leaves and crumble them into a mixture with other dried flower petals for a fragrant potpourri.

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Gardening

The Ultimate Guide to Pruning Japanese Maples for Health and Beauty

by Keira
written by Keira

All About Pruning Japanese Maples: A Comprehensive Guide

Why Prune Japanese Maples?

Japanese maples are prized for their beauty and elegance, but to maintain their health and aesthetic appeal, regular pruning is essential. Pruning removes dead, dying, or broken branches, promotes healthy growth, and allows you to shape the tree to your desired form.

When to Prune Japanese Maples

The ideal time to prune Japanese maples is during their dormant period, typically between the first frost and late winter. However, they can tolerate pruning throughout the year if necessary. It’s recommended to prune as part of an annual health inspection during winter dormancy and assess the tree again after it leafs out to check for any dissimilar leaves or undesirable growth.

Tips for Pruning Japanese Maples

Tools and Preparation:

  • Always clean your pruning tools with a solution of 90% alcohol or bleach and water to prevent the spread of pathogens.
  • Choose the appropriate tool for the job: hand pruners for branches up to 1/4 inch in diameter, loppers for branches up to 2 inches, and a pruning saw for larger branches.

Pruning Techniques:

  • Remove any lower branches that appear dissimilar or have leaves that differ from the rest of the tree.
  • Eliminate broken, dying, or dead branches (BDD).
  • Stake young trees to encourage upright growth.
  • Prune away no more than 1/3 of living tree material per year.
  • Make pruning cuts as close as possible to the branch collar without damaging it.

Special Considerations:

  • If your tree is grafted onto rootstock, remove any suckers that may emerge from the rootstock.
  • Prune weeping Japanese maples to achieve an umbrella-like form by cutting above a line across the trunk and removing dissimilar leaves on lower branches.
  • For upright Japanese maples, decide whether you want a single leader or multiple stems. Remove extra branches to establish the desired form and allow leaders to develop height and lateral branches.

Pruning Upright vs. Weeping Japanese Maples

Upright Japanese Maples:

  • Remove dissimilar leaves and branches along the trunk, especially those growing from the grafting stock.
  • Decide on a single leader or multiple stems and remove any extra branches accordingly.
  • Continue to prune yearly, allowing leaders to grow and develop lateral branches.

Weeping Japanese Maples:

  • Cut above a line across the trunk to create an umbrella-like shape.
  • Remove dissimilar leaves on lower branches.
  • Repeat this process annually until maturity, then prune as needed to maintain the傘形.
  • Stake young weeping trees to achieve an upright habit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I cut the lower branches of a Japanese maple?

  • Cut lower branches if they have dissimilar leaves or if the tree is grafted onto rootstock and suckers are present.

Can you prune Japanese maple in fall?

  • Yes, you can prune Japanese maples in late fall, early winter, or late winter, but it’s best to prune when the tree is dormant.

How do you prune and shape a Japanese maple tree?

  • The pruning and shaping technique depends on the tree’s growth habit (weeping or upright). Weeping trees require training to achieve an umbrella-like form, while upright trees can be pruned to have a single leader or multiple stems.

Additional Tips:

  • Never prune more than 1/3 of the living tree material at a time.
  • Avoid leaving two leaders on an upright tree, as this can lead to splitting.
  • Protect pruning wounds with a sealant to prevent disease.
  • Japanese maples generally tolerate pruning well, so don’t be afraid to make necessary cuts.
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Horticulture

The Elusive Musk Strawberry: A Horticulturist’s Quest to Recreate a Lost Flavor

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

The Elusive Musk Strawberry: A Horticulturist’s Quest

The Promise of a Lost Flavor

In the realm of horticulture, Harry Jan Swartz, a dedicated professor at the University of Maryland, has embarked on an ambitious mission: to resurrect the elusive flavor of the musk strawberry, a fruit beloved by Jane Austen and her contemporaries.

A Historical Delicacy

The musk strawberry, known as Fragaria moschata, was once widely cultivated in Europe from the 16th to the mid-19th centuries. Prized for its intense aroma and unique flavor, it was often mentioned in literature, including Jane Austen’s “Emma,” where it was described as “infinitely superior” to other varieties.

Barriers to Cultivation

Despite its popularity, the musk strawberry faced challenges in commercial cultivation due to its low yield and susceptibility to pests and diseases. Additionally, its unusual pollination requirements and genetic makeup made it difficult to hybridize with modern strawberry varieties.

Swartz’s Quest

Undeterred by these obstacles, Swartz launched a private breeding program in 1998 with the goal of creating a musk strawberry hybrid that combined the desired flavor with the firmness and yield of modern cultivars.

Breeding Strategies

Swartz’s breeding strategies involved crossing musk strawberries with wild and alpine strawberry species, using colchicine to increase the number of chromosomes in the hybrids, and selecting for plants with desirable traits. He deliberately chose challenging growing environments to test the resilience of his hybrids.

The Challenges of Musk Strawberry Breeding

Increasing the size and firmness of the musk strawberry hybrids while preserving their flavor proved to be a delicate balancing act. Strawberry plants produce limited amounts of photosynthates, which they allocate to yield, firmness, or sweetness. Swartz sought to optimize all three qualities, a rare feat in strawberry breeding.

A Decade of Trial and Error

Over a decade of painstaking work, Swartz tasted approximately 100,000 berries, many of them unappetizing, in search of the perfect combination of traits. He meticulously selected seeds from the most promising fruits and grew them into new generations of hybrids.

A Moment of Triumph

After seven years of relentless effort, Swartz finally achieved a breakthrough. He discovered a medium-sized, conical berry with an intense musk strawberry aroma and flavor. This discovery marked a significant milestone in his quest.

Continued Progress

Swartz’s work continued with further crosses and refinements. He identified three musk hybrids with exceptional characteristics and began propagating them for commercial release. He is optimistic about developing a musk hybrid with commercially viable yield, size, and shelf life within the next few years.

The Future of Musk Strawberries

While Swartz’s ultimate goal is to bring the musk strawberry back to the forefront of the fruit market, he acknowledges the challenges of introducing new varieties to consumers accustomed to the bland flavors of modern strawberries. Nonetheless, his passion for the musk strawberry and his unwavering dedication to his craft continue to drive him forward.

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Botany

Monkshood: A Guide to Growing and Caring for This Poisonous Beauty

by Peter
written by Peter

Growing and Caring for Monkshood: A Comprehensive Guide

Overview

Monkshood (Aconitum napellus) is a captivating yet highly toxic herbaceous perennial that captivates with its distinctive hooded flowers and rich historical significance. Native to mountainous regions of Europe and Asia, monkshood thrives in moist, well-drained soil and partial shade.

Toxicity

It is imperative to emphasize that monkshood is one of the most poisonous plants known. All parts of the plant, including its roots and foliage, contain highly toxic alkaloids. Exercise extreme caution when handling monkshood, and always wear gloves. It is inadvisable to grow monkshood in areas frequented by children or pets.

Growth and Appearance

Monkshood typically reaches heights of 2-5 feet and produces smooth, palmate leaves with deep lobes. Its captivating flowers emerge in late summer and fall, featuring five sepals. The top sepal curves downward, forming a distinctive hood-like structure that gives the flower its name. The actual petals are hidden within this hood.

Soil and Light Requirements

Monkshood prefers moist but well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. It is adaptable to a range of soil pH levels, from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. While it can tolerate full sun, partial shade is ideal, especially in warm climates, to prevent scorching of the delicate petals.

Water and Nutrient Needs

Monkshood requires ample moisture to thrive. Water regularly, especially during its active growth period in spring. Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil can lead to root rot. Fertilize sparingly with a balanced fertilizer in spring, but avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers that can promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers.

Propagation

Monkshood can be propagated through root division or by seed. Root division is the preferred method, as it ensures accurate propagation of named cultivars. Divide the clumps in fall or spring, taking care to wear gloves and avoid direct skin contact with the toxic roots. Sow seeds in late fall for germination in the spring. Seedlings may take up to two years to mature into flowering plants.

Overwintering

Monkshood is generally hardy in USDA zones 3-8 and does not require special winter protection. However, a thick layer of organic mulch can help moderate freeze-thaw cycles and protect the roots in colder regions.

Common Pests and Diseases

Monkshood is relatively pest-resistant, but it can be susceptible to crown rot, powdery mildew, and verticillium wilt. Crown rot is often caused by poorly drained soil or excess moisture. Powdery mildew can be prevented by avoiding overhead watering. Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungal disease that requires removal and destruction of affected plants.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

  • Failure to Bloom: Ensure the plant is receiving adequate moisture and is not over-fertilized with nitrogen. Avoid dividing monkshood too frequently, as this can reduce blooming in the following season.
  • Leggy Growth: Provide support with stakes to prevent the tall stems from toppling over.
  • Wilting Stems: This may indicate verticillium wilt, which requires immediate removal and destruction of affected plants.

Additional Tips

  • To prevent cross-contamination, avoid planting monkshood near edible plants.
  • Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with monkshood, and wash thoroughly afterward.
  • Compost monkshood plant parts separately from other compost materials, as the toxins are not destroyed by composting.
  • Respect the plant’s toxicity and keep it out of reach of children and pets.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How long does monkshood live?

Monkshood plants typically have a lifespan of 10-20 years or longer.

2. What is the best way to use monkshood in the landscape?

Monkshood is a versatile plant that can be used along streams and ponds, in border gardens, or as a specimen plant. It is best to avoid planting it near children or pets.

3. Are there any non-toxic types of monkshood?

No, all species of Aconitum are considered seriously toxic.

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Botany

How to Grow a Giant Pumpkin: A Comprehensive Scientific Guide

by Peter
written by Peter

How to Grow a Giant Pumpkin

The Science of Super-Sized Squash

Growing a giant pumpkin is not for the faint of heart. It requires patience, precision, and a deep understanding of the science behind these colossal cucurbits.

Genetics: The Foundation of Giant Pumpkins

As with any prize-winning specimen, genetics play a crucial role in growing giant pumpkins. Growers carefully trace the lineage of their pumpkins, selecting seeds from previous record-breakers. For example, Beni Meier’s record-smashing pumpkin was bred from a seed taken from Ron Wallace’s legendary “Freak II,” the first pumpkin to weigh over a ton.

Pollination: A Delicate Touch

Pollination is a critical step in the growth of a giant pumpkin. It requires a gentle hand, as Carol O’Meara, a horticultural entomologist, explains: “No whomping on her with your stamen.” Growers use fine brushes to carefully transfer pollen from male to female flowers, ensuring proper fertilization.

Nutrition: Fueling the Giant

Giant pumpkins have voracious appetites. Growers provide them with a nutrient-rich diet of specialized elixirs and experimental bacterial concoctions. Some even employ innovative techniques like grafting two vines onto a single plant to double the nutrient supply to the fruit.

Protection: Shielding the Giant

Giant pumpkins are delicate creatures, susceptible to pests and weather damage. Growers protect their precious plants with blankets and other coverings to regulate temperature and humidity. They also employ natural and chemical pest control methods to keep their pumpkins healthy.

The Quest for the Maximal Pumpkin

The world of giant pumpkin growing is a constant race towards the limit of maximal pumpkin size. Growers push the boundaries of their plants’ potential, experimenting with new techniques and pushing the limits of what is possible.

Why Grow a Giant Pumpkin?

The question of why one would want to grow a 2,000-pound pumpkin may seem absurd, but for giant pumpkin growers, the pursuit is about more than just size. It’s about pushing boundaries, exploring the limits of nature, and creating something truly extraordinary.

Giant Pumpkin Growing: A Race Against Time

Growing a giant pumpkin is a long and arduous process that can take months. Growers must carefully monitor their plants, providing them with optimal conditions and protection throughout their growth cycle. The payoff, however, can be immense. With a little luck and a lot of dedication, growers can achieve the ultimate goal of nurturing a pumpkin worthy of a world record.

Additional Tips for Giant Pumpkin Growing:

  • Choose the right variety: Certain pumpkin varieties, such as the Atlantic Giant, are specifically bred for their giant size potential.
  • Prepare the soil: Giant pumpkins require well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Amend your soil with plenty of organic matter and fertilizer.
  • Water deeply: Giant pumpkins need consistent moisture, especially during the early stages of growth.
  • Protect from pests and diseases: Regularly inspect your plants for pests and diseases and treat accordingly.
  • Be patient: Growing a giant pumpkin takes time and effort. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t see immediate results.
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Nature

Shrubs vs. Bushes: A Comprehensive Guide to Horticultural Differences and Landscaping Uses

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

Shrubs vs. Bushes: A Horticultural Distinction

Horticultural Definitions

In horticulture, the terms “shrub” and “bush” are often used interchangeably, but there are subtle distinctions between the two. A shrub is generally defined as a woody plant with multiple perennial stems that may be erect or close to the ground, with a mature height of less than 15 feet and stem diameters of less than three inches. A bush, on the other hand, is typically described as a plant that forms a specific shape, with stems and leaves that may be almost touching the ground.

Shrub vs. Bush Foliage

Another way to differentiate between shrubs and bushes is through their foliage. Evergreen shrubs and bushes retain their leaves throughout the year, while deciduous ones lose their leaves in the fall. Additionally, some bushes have stems and leaves that grow close to the ground, while shrubs tend to have thicker foliage and a more upright growth habit.

Location-Based Distinction

The setting of a plant can also influence its classification as a shrub or a bush. Some gardeners consider plants cultivated in gardens to be shrubs, while those growing wild are considered bushes. However, there are exceptions to this rule, such as rose bushes and blueberry bushes, which are typically found in cultivated gardens.

Shrubs vs. Bushes in Landscaping

Both shrubs and bushes are commonly used in landscaping for various purposes. Shrubs are often chosen for their ornamental value, such as their flowers, foliage, or shape. They can be planted as individual specimens or grouped together to create hedges or borders. Bushes, on the other hand, are often used in naturalized plantings or as understory plants in woodland gardens. They can also be used to create dense thickets for privacy or wildlife habitat.

Shrubs, Bushes, and Hedges

Shrubs and bushes are often planted close together to form hedges, which are used for a variety of purposes in landscaping, such as privacy fencing, property line demarcation, or visual division of outdoor spaces. Hedges can be tall or short, evergreen or deciduous, and flowering or non-flowering, depending on the plant species used.

Popular Shrubs and Bushes

One of the most popular evergreen shrubs is the boxwood, which is known for its versatility and ease of shaping. It is often used in topiaries and hedges. Other popular shrubs include hydrangeas, azaleas, and rhododendrons, which are valued for their showy flowers. Common bushes include wild roses, elderberries, and viburnums, which provide food and shelter for wildlife.

Maintenance and Care

Both shrubs and bushes require regular maintenance to maintain their health and appearance. This includes pruning to remove dead or diseased branches, shape the plants, and encourage new growth. Fertilization and watering are also important, especially during the growing season. By providing proper care, you can ensure that your shrubs and bushes thrive and enhance your landscape for years to come.

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Botany

Stephanotis: Your Comprehensive Guide to Growing and Caring for the Bridal Flower

by Rosa
written by Rosa

Stephanotis: A Comprehensive Guide to Care and Cultivation

Overview

Stephanotis, also known as Madagascar jasmine or bridal flower, is a captivating flowering vine prized for its delicate white blooms and intoxicating fragrance. Native to Madagascar, stephanotis thrives in tropical climates with high humidity and warm temperatures. While it can be challenging to cultivate, with proper care, this exotic plant can bring beauty and aroma to any indoor or outdoor space.

Care Requirements

Light:

  • Outdoors: Full sun or partial shade, with protection from scorching afternoon sun.
  • Indoors: A sunny windowsill or under grow lights.

Soil:

  • Well-draining potting mix with a high content of loam and peat moss.
  • pH level between 5.5 and 6.5.

Water:

  • Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
  • Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot.

Temperature and Humidity:

  • Stephanotis thrives in warm temperatures between 65 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • High humidity is essential, especially during the growing season. Consider using a humidifier or placing the plant near a water feature.

Fertilizer:

  • Fertilize monthly during the spring and summer with a balanced flower fertilizer.
  • Stop fertilizing during the winter resting period.

Pruning:

  • Prune lightly in late winter to maintain shape and encourage new growth.
  • Remove side shoots to reduce the size of the plant and encourage bushier growth.

Propagation

Stephanotis can be propagated through stem cuttings:

  1. Take a cutting with 1-2 inches of stem and 2-3 leaves.
  2. Remove the lower leaves and dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone.
  3. Insert the cutting into a pot filled with sand, peat, or perlite.
  4. Keep the cutting moist and provide high humidity.
  5. Cuttings will root in 4-6 weeks and may flower within a year.

Growing from Seed

Growing stephanotis from seed can be challenging, as it rarely produces fruit. If seeds are available:

  1. Harvest seeds from ripened pods and plant immediately.
  2. Fill a tray with potting soil and cover seeds with soil.
  3. Keep humidity high by covering the tray with plastic wrap.
  4. Place the tray in a bright, warm location (75 degrees Fahrenheit).
  5. Transplant seedlings into individual pots once true leaves emerge.

Potting and Repotting

Due to its vigorous growth, stephanotis may need to be repotted every other year to a larger container.

  1. Choose a container with adequate drainage holes and fill it with half potting soil and half leaf mold or compost.
  2. Always provide a trellis or support for the vine to climb.

Overwintering

Overwintering is crucial for indoor stephanotis plants:

  1. Cease humidity efforts and allow the plant’s atmosphere to become dry.
  2. Water sparingly, only when the soil is completely dry.
  3. Do not fertilize during the winter.
  4. Keep the plant in a cool, bright location (50 degrees Fahrenheit).
  5. Do not prune until late winter or early spring.

Common Pests and Diseases

  • Spider mites
  • Scale
  • Root-knot nematodes
  • Aphids
  • Mealybugs
  • Thrips
  • Root rot
  • Sooty mold

Bloom Cycle

  • Stephanotis typically blooms from late spring to early summer, with occasional blooms in October and November.
  • The flowers are small, trumpet-shaped, and pure white, with a sweet, perfume-like fragrance.
  • Blooms last longest when left on the vine.

Encouraging More Blooms

  • Provide consistent temperatures around 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Offer afternoon shade to protect flowers from scorching.
  • Ensure adequate fertilization and humidity.
  • Winter is typically a rest phase, but indoor plants can be encouraged to flower by providing 4-6 hours of light.

Common Problems

  • Dropping Flowers and Leaves: Extreme temperature changes or watering issues.
  • Patches on Leaves or Stems: Pests such as mealybugs or aphids.
  • Yellow Leaves: Nutrient deficiency.
  • No Buds or Flowers: Low humidity, insufficient fertilizer, poor winterizing.

FAQs

  • Is Stephanotis the Same as Jasmine? No, although the blooms resemble common jasmine, they are not botanically related.
  • Is Stephanotis Easy to Care For? No, stephanotis is a demanding plant that requires specific care conditions and is often grown commercially rather than at home.
  • Is Stephanotis an Indoor or Outdoor Plant? It can be grown outdoors in zones 10 and warmer, but is typically grown indoors below zone 10.
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Gardening

Mary Marlowe Leverette: Master Gardener with Decades of Expertise and Experience

by Keira
written by Keira

Mary Marlowe Leverette: Master Gardener with Decades of Experience

Expertise and Experience

Mary Marlowe Leverette is a highly experienced Master Gardener and orchard owner with both home gardening and commercial farming expertise. She has been a Master Gardener for over 30 years, and has over 50 years of experience in commercial and home gardening. Leverette is also a former Clemson University Extension Agent and has been a member of The Spruce Gardening and Plant Care Review Board since 2021.

As an extension agent with Clemson University, Leverette played a key role in promoting the first Master Gardener programs offered in South Carolina in 1981. She also collaborated with horticulturists in the development of Riverbanks Botanical Garden, which opened in 1995.

Along with her brother, Leverette owns Marlowe Farms Apple Orchards, where she has gained extensive experience in growing vegetables, annuals, and perennials in both home and commercial settings.

Education and Expertise

Leverette holds a Bachelor of Science degree from Mars Hill University and a Master’s degree from the University of South Carolina. She received her Master Gardener training from Clemson University.

Leverette’s expertise encompasses a wide range of gardening topics, including:

  • Orchards
  • Perennials
  • Annuals
  • Vegetables
  • Commercial crops

The Spruce: A Trusted Resource for Home and Garden Enthusiasts

The Spruce, a Dotdash Meredith brand, is a leading home website that provides practical, real-life tips and inspiration to help people create their best homes. The Spruce reaches over 32 million people each month and is committed to providing trustworthy advice from certified experts for home and garden improvement.

Master Gardener Programs

Master Gardener programs are designed to train volunteers in the science and art of horticulture. Master Gardeners provide research-based information to the public on a wide range of gardening topics. Leverette has been involved in the development and promotion of Master Gardener programs throughout her career.

Riverbanks Botanical Garden

Riverbanks Botanical Garden is a 70-acre botanical garden located in Columbia, South Carolina. The garden features a variety of plant collections, including a rose garden, a Japanese garden, and a children’s garden. Leverette played a key role in the development of the garden and continues to be involved in its educational programs.

Marlowe Farms Apple Orchards

Marlowe Farms Apple Orchards is a family-owned and operated apple orchard located in Columbia, South Carolina. The orchard grows a variety of apple varieties, as well as peaches, plums, and other fruits. Leverette and her brother have over 50 years of experience in commercial fruit production.

Conclusion

Mary Marlowe Leverette is a highly respected and experienced Master Gardener with a wealth of knowledge in both home and commercial gardening. Her expertise and dedication to horticulture have made her a valuable resource for gardeners of all levels.

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