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Aragvi: Unveiling the Secrets of Moscow’s Legendary Spy and Celebrity Hotspot

by Peter
written by Peter

Aragvi: Moscow’s Legendary Restaurant of Spies and Celebrities

The Haunt of Soviet Elite

In the heart of Moscow, nestled on Tverskaya Ulitsa, stands Aragvi, a restaurant steeped in history and intrigue. During the Soviet era, Aragvi was the place to be seen for the cream of society, including movie stars, chess champions, cosmonauts, and even members of the feared KGB.

It was rumored that Lavrentiy Beria, Stalin’s chief of secret police, was a regular patron, often dining with Stalin’s son Vasily. British agent Kim Philby, who defected to the USSR in 1963, was also known to frequent Aragvi, drawn by its authentic Georgian cuisine.

A Culinary Oasis in Soviet Moscow

In a city where dining options were limited, Aragvi stood out as a culinary oasis. It was the only place in Moscow to get authentic Georgian food, featuring a 12-page menu with a wide variety of dishes.

The restaurant’s decadent atmosphere was captured by director Sergei Solovyov, who recalled being shocked by the lavish dishes served at Aragvi. “I can see it as if it were yesterday,” he said. “They brought our order of lobio, satsivi, shashlik, chicken livers, and caviar to the table… but I was so hungry that I fainted before the waiter brought our plates.”

A KGB Hotspot

Beyond its culinary reputation, Aragvi was also known as a haunt for KGB spies. According to former KGB agent Mikhail Lyubimov, most of the restaurant’s staff were retired KGB officers, and it was a prime recruiting ground for new spies. Farewell parties for agents going abroad were often held at Aragvi.

Lyubimov recalled a memorable night when “one of our men invited a beautiful woman to dance, not realizing she herself was a US spy and was being tailed by the KGB.”

Post-Soviet Transformation

After the fall of the Soviet Union, Aragvi changed hands several times and eventually closed in 2003. However, in 2018, the Tashir group and investor Gor Nakhapetyan invested heavily in restoring the restaurant to its former glory.

The main dining rooms still feature Soviet murals depicting tractors, workers, and sheaves of corn, but the menu has been updated to focus on authentic Black Sea cuisine, including dishes like khinkali dumplings and pkhali chopped salad.

Preserving the Legacy

While the restaurant’s ambiance has changed somewhat, the owners are keen to preserve its unique history. They hope to capitalize on Aragvi’s reputation as a meeting place for spies and celebrities, attracting diners who are curious about its Cold War past.

However, recreating the Cold War atmosphere exactly would be difficult. As Lyubimov notes, “Everything was bugged, you know? But everybody knew that if you were in Aragvi: don’t talk, keep quiet.”

A Culinary and Historical Landmark

Today, Aragvi remains a culinary and historical landmark in Moscow. It is a place where diners can experience authentic Georgian cuisine while immersing themselves in the city’s rich and complex past. From its humble beginnings as a favorite haunt of Soviet spies to its current status as a popular tourist destination, Aragvi continues to fascinate and intrigue visitors from all over the world.

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Food and Drink

Julia Child in Paris: Honoring a Culinary Legacy

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

Julia Child: A Culinary Icon in Paris

Julia Child’s Legacy in Paris

Julia Child, the renowned American chef who popularized French cuisine, lived in Paris with her husband Paul after World War II. Despite her significant contributions to French gastronomy, she has yet to receive a commemorative plaque in the city she loved.

A group of American expats, including Walter and Patricia Wells, are advocating for a plaque to be installed at 81 rue de l’Université, the apartment building where Julia Child lived. They believe that her impact on French cuisine and her enduring popularity in America warrant such recognition.

Julia Child’s Culinary Contributions

Julia Child’s influence on American cuisine is undeniable. She authored the groundbreaking cookbook “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” which introduced French culinary techniques to a wider audience. Her PBS cooking shows, such as “The French Chef,” further popularized French cuisine and made Child a household name.

In France, however, Child’s fame is less pronounced. Despite being inducted into the French Legion d’Honneur, the general public is largely unaware of her contributions. The French Chef is more revered in America, where she is considered a culinary icon.

Efforts to Honor Julia Child in Paris

Walter and Patricia Wells, along with other friends and admirers of Julia Child, are determined to change this. They believe that a plaque at 81 rue de l’Université would be a fitting tribute to her legacy.

The process of installing a commemorative plaque in Paris is complex, requiring approvals from the building’s owners, the arrondissement, and the city council. In most cases, the honoree must have been deceased for at least ten years. Julia Child passed away in 2004, making her eligible for such recognition.

Julia Child Tours and Classes

In the absence of a plaque, Julia Child’s memory is kept alive through various tours and classes dedicated to her in Paris and Provence.

  • Tour de Forks: This New York-based tour company offers a seven-day itinerary that explores Julia Child’s Paris and Provence, beginning at the Hotel Pont Royal where she and Paul stayed.
  • Le Cordon Bleu: The prestigious culinary school offers a three-hour lecture demonstration in honor of Julia Child, featuring a JC-inspired meal that participants can enjoy.
  • At Home with Patricia Wells: Patricia Wells, the author of “The Food Lover’s Guide to France,” teaches five-day cooking courses in Paris and Provence. In Provence, Wells uses a La Cornue stove given to her by Julia Child.
  • Cooking with Friends in France: American chef Kathie Alex hosts cooking classes at La Pitchoune, Julia Child’s beloved retreat in Provence. Courses include cooking instruction, market visits, and meals at Michelin-starred restaurants.
  • On Rue Tatin: Cookbook writer Susan Herrmann Loomis, a friend of Julia Child, offers cooking classes in the Norman village of Louvier and one-day classes in Paris.

These tours and classes provide an opportunity for food lovers to experience Julia Child’s culinary legacy firsthand and to learn more about her contributions to French cuisine.

Julia Child’s Enduring Influence

Julia Child’s impact on French cuisine and American culinary culture continues to resonate today. Her recipes, techniques, and passion for food have inspired generations of chefs and home cooks alike.

While she may not be as well-known in France as she is in America, Julia Child’s legacy is secure. She will forever be remembered as a culinary pioneer who brought the joy of French cooking to the world.

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Food and Culture

Culinary Diplomacy: How Food Became a Powerful Diplomatic Tool

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

Culinary Diplomacy: How Food Became a Powerful Diplomatic Tool

Promoting National Identity Through Cuisine

In today’s globalized world, nations are increasingly recognizing the power of food as a diplomatic tool. By promoting their national cuisines, countries can raise their profile on the world stage, attract tourists, and even divert attention from troubled pasts.

The Rise of Culinary Diplomacy

Culinary diplomacy is a carefully planned branding effort by governments to popularize their national cuisines worldwide. Countries like Korea, Thailand, and Peru have been particularly successful in this regard.

Peru, for example, has made a concerted effort over the past decade to promote its cuisine globally. This effort has included a tourism campaign that funds cookbooks and food festivals, partnerships with food producers and high-profile chefs, and even lobbying efforts to get UNESCO recognition for Peruvian food.

The Benefits of Culinary Diplomacy

The benefits of culinary diplomacy are numerous. For one, it can boost tourism. According to the Peruvian embassy, 40% of all tourism to Peru in 2013 was motivated primarily by food. Gastronomic tourism generated about $700 million that year.

Food can also help to improve a country’s image and divert attention from negative perceptions. For example, Peru’s push toward “gastro-prestige” has helped to overshadow the country’s epidemic of terrorism during the 1980s and 1990s.

Food as a Bridge Between Cultures

One of the most important aspects of culinary diplomacy is its ability to foster cross-cultural understanding. Food can be used to create a sense of connection and belonging between people from different backgrounds.

As Sam Chapple-Sokol, a “culinary diplomat,” notes on his blog, food can be used to “get along with people, to talk with people, and to get to know them better.”

The Future of Culinary Diplomacy

Culinary diplomacy is a growing field, with college courses, academic journals, and other forms of study dedicated to the topic. As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, food will likely continue to play an important role in international relations.

Examples of Successful Culinary Diplomacy Campaigns

  • Peru: Peru’s aggressive campaign to promote its cuisine has resulted in a significant increase in tourism and a boost to the country’s image.
  • Thailand: Thailand has successfully used its national cuisine to promote tourism and cultural exchange. The country’s famous street food has become a major draw for visitors from around the world.
  • Korea: Korea has used its national cuisine to promote its cultural heritage and to strengthen ties with other countries. The country’s traditional dishes have become popular in many parts of the world.

Challenges of Culinary Diplomacy

While culinary diplomacy can be a powerful tool, it is not without its challenges. One challenge is the need to balance the promotion of national cuisine with the need to respect local food traditions. Another challenge is the need to ensure that culinary diplomacy is not seen as a form of cultural imperialism.

Conclusion

Culinary diplomacy is a complex and multifaceted field that has the potential to make a positive impact on the world. By promoting their national cuisines, countries can raise their profile, attract tourists, and foster cross-cultural understanding. As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, food will likely continue to play an important role in international relations.

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