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Fashion

The Evolution of the Little Black Dress: A Timeless Symbol of Fashion and Social Change

by Jasmine
written by Jasmine

The Evolution of the Little Black Dress: A Symbol of Fashion and Social Change

The Birth of an Icon

Almost a century ago, Coco Chanel introduced the world to the Little Black Dress (LBD), a garment that would become an enduring fashion staple. The 1926 creation democratized women’s fashion, making it accessible to a wider audience. It was a symbol of the modernization and mass production of clothing, reflecting the changing role of women in society.

Beyond the Basics: The Versatility of the LBD

The LBD’s versatility has allowed it to transcend time and trends. From a simple shift dress to a bold political statement, it has evolved to reflect changing ideals of beauty and body image. The exhibition “Beyond the Little Black Dress” at the National Museum of Scotland showcases this evolution through 65 iconic looks.

Cultural Symbolism and Social Impact

The LBD has become more than just a piece of clothing; it has evolved into a cultural symbol. It represents both “piety and perversion, respect and rebellion,” reflecting the complexities of women’s experiences and the social changes that have shaped them.

Sustainability and Ethical Considerations

In recent years, the fashion industry has come under scrutiny for its environmental impact. The “Beyond the Little Black Dress” exhibition addresses this issue by featuring sustainable designs and showcasing the work of designers who are committed to ethical practices.

Afrofuturism and the Role of Black Designers

The exhibition also explores the role of the color black in crafting an Afrofuturistic aesthetic. This section highlights the work of Black British designers and examines how they have used black to express their cultural heritage and challenge societal norms.

The LBD as a Mirror to Society

Georgina Ripley, curator of the exhibition, believes that the LBD can be held up as a mirror to society. Through its various iterations, it has reflected changing social attitudes, economic shifts, and the ongoing evolution of women’s roles and identities.

The Enduring Legacy of the LBD

Despite the fickle nature of the fashion world, the LBD has achieved a rare status of being truly timeless. It continues to be a wardrobe essential, transcending generations and remaining relevant in an ever-changing fashion landscape.

Conclusion

The “Beyond the Little Black Dress” exhibition offers a comprehensive exploration of the LBD’s cultural impact, social significance, and enduring legacy. Through its diverse collection of garments and insightful commentary, the exhibition invites visitors to reflect on the ways in which fashion can both shape and reflect societal change.

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Fashion

Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group’s Fashion Revolution: Breaking Conventions and Inspiring Contemporary Style

by Kim
written by Kim

Virginia Woolf’s Influence on Fashion: The Bloomsbury Group’s Sartorial Revolution

The Bloomsbury Group: Breaking Fashion Conventions

In the early 20th century, a group of influential British writers, artists, and philosophers known as the Bloomsbury Group emerged, challenging societal norms and embracing a bohemian lifestyle. Among its members were Virginia Woolf, E.M. Forster, John Maynard Keynes, and Lady Ottoline Morrell.

One of the group’s defining characteristics was their rejection of conventional fashion standards. In a letter to T.S. Eliot, Virginia Woolf famously instructed her friend to “bring no clothes” when visiting her cottage in East Sussex. This directive reflected the Bloomsbury Group’s belief in simplicity and their disdain for the sartorial constraints of upper-middle-class society.

Charleston: A Hub of Bloomsbury Style

The Bloomsbury Group often gathered at Charleston, a farmhouse-turned-museum in Sussex that was once inhabited by Virginia Woolf’s sister, Vanessa Bell, and the painter Duncan Grant. Charleston became a hub of creativity and a showcase for the group’s unique fashion sense.

Members of the Bloomsbury Group dressed in a manner that defied popular convention. They favored loose, comfortable clothing that allowed for freedom of movement and expression. Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant were known for their striking and unconventional outfits, which often incorporated bright colors and bold patterns.

Virginia Woolf’s Complex Views on Fashion

Despite her rejection of societal fashion norms, Virginia Woolf’s views on clothing were complex and often contradictory. In her fiction, she imbued clothing with symbolic meaning, exploring its role in shaping identity and social status. However, in her personal life, she struggled with anxieties about her wardrobe and often criticized her own fashion choices.

The Destruction of Bloomsbury Group Wardrobes

Unlike their Victorian predecessors, the Bloomsbury Group had little regard for material possessions, including clothing. Many of their garments were deliberately destroyed after their deaths. This act of destruction reflected their rejection of conventional values and their belief in the transience of material goods.

The Enduring Influence of the Bloomsbury Group

Despite their disdain for fashion, the Bloomsbury Group has had a lasting influence on contemporary style. Designers today continue to draw inspiration from their liberated sexuality, feminism, queerness, and pacifism. Kim Jones, the artistic director of Fendi and Dior, has created collections directly inspired by Virginia Woolf and Duncan Grant.

The Significance of Clothing in the Bloomsbury Group

Clothing played a multifaceted role in the lives of the Bloomsbury Group members. It was a means of expressing their individuality, challenging social norms, and creating a sense of community. The Bloomsbury Group’s sartorial revolution paved the way for a more liberated and expressive approach to fashion in the 20th century and beyond.

Legacy and Impact

The Bloomsbury Group’s legacy extends far beyond fashion. Their bohemian lifestyle, their commitment to artistic freedom, and their challenge to societal conventions continue to inspire artists, writers, and thinkers to this day. The exhibition “Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion” at Charleston offers a captivating glimpse into the sartorial world of this extraordinary group and its enduring impact on British culture.

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Uncategorized

Unisex Fashion: A History of Gender-Bending Style and Its Impact on Society

by Peter
written by Peter

Unisex Fashion: A History of Gender-Bending Style

The Rise of Unisex

Before the 1960s, the term “unisex” was rarely used. But with the rise of the feminist movement and the sexual revolution, clothing began to break free from traditional gender norms.

In the mid-1960s, the term “unisex” emerged to describe salons that offered similar haircuts to both men and women. By the mid-1970s, unisex fashion had become a widespread phenomenon, influencing everything from childrearing to the workplace.

Fashion as a Catalyst

Fashion played a key role in the rise of unisex. In 1968, The New York Times first used the word “unisex” to describe chunky “Monster” shoes. Soon after, department stores and catalogs created new sections for “his’n’her” clothing, featuring couples in matching outfits.

Unisex as a Reflection of Social Change

Unisex fashion was not just about confusing people. It served as a symbol of various movements that challenged traditional gender roles.

During the “peacock revolution” of the late 1960s, men embraced flamboyant patterns and colors in Edwardian shirts and tight pants. Designer Rudi Gernreich created futuristic, androgynous styles, including a topless bathing suit for women and “No-Bra Bras” without underwire or padding.

In the 1970s, unisex clothing took the form of matching patchwork denim sets and fleece “loungewear” for the whole family. This trend reflected the growing popularity of ungendered parenting, as parents sought to raise their children without the constraints of traditional gender stereotypes.

Unisex Fashion in the 21st Century

Unisex fashion waned in the mid-to-late 1970s as people sought a more conservative style during an economic downturn. However, certain unisex elements remained, such as pants for women.

In recent years, unisex fashion has experienced a revival, thanks in part to celebrities like Jaden Smith, who has worn dresses and skirts on multiple occasions. This resurgence reflects the ongoing challenges and controversies surrounding gender identity and expression.

Gender Fluidity and the Future of Fashion

Unisex fashion continues to evolve, reflecting the increasingly fluid nature of gender. Clothing is no longer solely a way to express gender but also to communicate individuality, creativity, and social consciousness.

Fashion scholar Jo Paoletti argues that rigidly gendered clothing limits our ability to express our true selves. She envisions a future where our wardrobes reflect the full range of possibilities, allowing us to dress in ways that express our inner selves and embrace our diverse identities.

Conclusion

Unisex fashion has a long and complex history, reflecting the intersection of social, political, and cultural change. It has challenged traditional gender norms, sparked controversy, and continues to evolve as a means of individual expression and social commentary.

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Fashion History

Fashion Fads and Classics: The Surprising Stories Behind Them

by Kim
written by Kim

Fashion Fads and Classics: The Surprising Stories Behind Them

Cowboys and Rhinestones

How did cowboys, known for their rugged masculinity, come to embrace flashy outfits adorned with rhinestones? The answer lies in Nudie Cohn, a Ukrainian-born tailor who settled in Hollywood in 1940. With his distinctive name, Nudie quickly made a name for himself by creating flamboyant suits for the likes of Johnny Cash, Dale Evans, Cher, and Elvis Presley.

Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors first gained recognition when he approached Tex Williams, a country music star who lived near Nudie and his wife in California. Nudie offered to make Williams a custom suit, but he needed $150 for a sewing machine. Williams agreed to sell a horse at auction to raise the funds.

Despite a mishap where Nudie initially made the suit with incorrect measurements due to drinking, he eventually delivered the suits to Williams. The band’s performance that night was a huge success, and Williams earned enough money to pay Nudie for his work.

Nudie’s reputation spread quickly, and he soon opened Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors in North Hollywood in 1950. In 1963, the store moved to Lankershim Boulevard, where it remained until it closed in 1994.

Tighty Whities: The Underwear Revolution

The origins of men’s briefs, commonly known as “tighty whities,” are surprisingly fascinating. In 1934, Arthur Kneibler of Cooper Inc. developed the Y-fronts, which were called “jockeys” due to their resemblance to a jockstrap.

Unveiled the following year at Marshall Fields in Chicago, the jockeys quickly became a hit, with the initial order selling out. Cooper was forced to rent a plane to handle the overwhelming demand for the next shipment. The company subsequently changed its name to Jockey International, and its briefs have been a staple in men’s wardrobes ever since.

Today, jockeys are available in various colors and fabrics, but the classic white cotton originals remain the most popular choice. Some men, however, prefer the French Legion-issued, deadstock variety without elastic, as described by Scott Bodenner on Worn Stories.

Plaid: A Checkered Past

Plaid, or tartan as it is known in Britain, has a rich and colorful history. It is closely associated with Scottish clans, who used different patterns and colors to represent their respective groups.

In 1746, following the failed Jacobite uprising led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, the British authorities banned the wearing of tartan under the Act of Proscription. They believed that tartan was a symbol of rebellion and could incite further unrest.

Fortunately for Scots and the fashion world, tartan was allowed to return from exile in 1782. Today, it is a popular fabric used in everything from clothing to home décor.

Other Sartorially-Enriching Articles

In addition to the aforementioned topics, several other articles offer insightful perspectives on fashion history and trends:

  • Bureau of Trade’s post on GQ, “In Defense of Tighty Whities,” explores the correlation between the popularity of skinny jeans and the increased demand for briefs.
  • Worn Stories features an article by Scott Bodenner that discusses the history and significance of the French Legion-issued deadstock underwear.
  • Worn Fashion Journal’s post, “A Checkered Past,” provides ten fun facts about the history of plaid and its association with Scottish clans.
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Fashion and Beauty

Nylon Stockings: A Historical Journey from Wartime Rationing to Nylon Riots

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

Nylon Stockings: A History of Wartime Rationing and Nylon Riots

The Invention of Nylon

Nylon stockings first emerged in Wilmington, Delaware, in 1939, thanks to the invention of nylon by Wallace Hume Carothers, a chemist working for DuPont. Nylon, a synthetic fabric made from “carbon, water, and air,” quickly gained popularity due to its stretchy, durable, and washable properties.

The Rise of Nylon Stockings

As hemlines rose throughout the 1930s, stockings became an essential part of women’s wardrobes. Nylon stockings, with their superior qualities, quickly replaced silk and rayon as the preferred choice. DuPont’s clever marketing campaign, touting nylon as “no run” (nuron spelled backwards), further fueled the demand.

Wartime Rationing

However, the outbreak of World War II in 1941 brought an abrupt end to the nylon stocking craze. Nylon was deemed essential for the war effort, being used in the production of parachutes, tire cords, and other military supplies. As a result, nylon stockings were severely rationed, leaving women to resort to creative measures to enhance their leg beauty, such as paint-on stockings.

The Nylon Riots

After the war, nylon stockings returned to stores with a vengeance. In 1945, “nylon riots” erupted across the country as hundreds and thousands of women lined up to purchase the coveted stockings. The situation reached its peak in Pittsburgh, where 40,000 people queued for over a mile for 13,000 pairs.

The Legacy of Nylon Stockings

Despite its wartime setbacks, nylon remained a popular choice for hosiery. DuPont’s relentless promotion and collaborations with high-end fashion designers ensured its continued success. Nylon stockings became a symbol of American women’s empowerment and liberation.

Nylon in Modern Clothing

Today, nylon is still used in the production of stockings, tights, and knee-highs. However, its presence in the fashion industry has declined due to the rise of natural fabrics. Nylon’s durability and versatility have found new applications in kitchens, bathrooms, and offices, primarily in the form of plastic products.

Environmental Concerns

The environmental impact of nylon production has become a growing concern. As a non-biodegradable material, nylon contributes to plastic pollution. DuPont has acknowledged this issue and is exploring ways to make nylon more sustainable and earth-friendly.

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Fashion

Reliving the Ebony Fashion Fair: A Trailblazing Cultural Phenomenon that Empowered Generations

by Zuzana
written by Zuzana

Reliving the Ebony Fashion Fair: A Cultural Phenomenon

The Trailblazing Show

For over 50 years, a group of extraordinary African-American models embarked on a remarkable journey across the country, bringing the glamour of haute couture to the masses. The Ebony Fashion Fair, a brainchild of Eunice W. Johnson, shattered industry norms and became a cultural icon.

With each performance in over 180 cities annually, the Ebony Fashion Fair was more than just a fashion show. It was a galvanizing event known for its live music, choreographed dance numbers, and fundraising efforts for charities and scholarships.

The Empowering Message

The Ebony Fashion Fair defied societal norms by unapologetically celebrating Black beauty. At a time when the “Black is beautiful” movement was gaining momentum, the show showcased darker-toned models adorned in vibrant colors and elegant designs.

Eunice Johnson, the visionary behind the show, believed that African-Americans deserved to see themselves represented in the glamorous world of fashion. Her determination to empower her community through fashion became a driving force behind the Ebony Fashion Fair’s success.

Breaking Barriers and Inspiring Generations

Despite facing racism and discrimination, the Ebony Fashion Fair models persevered. They highlighted the work of African-American designers like Stephen Burrows, showcasing a diverse range of styles and perspectives on the runway.

The show also embraced inclusivity, featuring plus-size models and defying the typical industry standards of beauty. The Ebony Fashion Fair became a symbol of hope and inspiration for generations of African-Americans, proving that they could achieve success and recognition in any field.

A Journey of Fashion Diplomacy

To acquire the latest European fashion, Eunice Johnson traveled the world, negotiating with designers and pushing past racial barriers. She became one of the most influential couture buyers globally, securing thousands of designs for the show.

Johnson’s determination and diplomatic skills opened doors for African-American designers, allowing them to showcase their talents on the international stage. The Ebony Fashion Fair became a bridge between different cultures, fostering appreciation for African-American aesthetics and creativity.

A Lasting Legacy

The Great Recession forced the Johnson Publishing Company to cancel the Ebony Fashion Fair’s final season in 2009. However, its impact on the fashion world and African-American culture remains profound.

The current exhibition, “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair,” breathes new life into the show’s legacy. It features a stunning collection of garments and artifacts, telling the story of a trailblazing cultural phenomenon that empowered countless individuals.

The Ebony Fashion Fair’s commitment to diversity, inclusivity, and Black empowerment continues to inspire modern designers and fashion enthusiasts alike. Its legacy serves as a testament to the power of fashion to break down barriers, uplift communities, and celebrate the beauty of all.

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Fashion Design

Uncovering the Hidden Legacy of Jewish Fashion Designers in London

by Jasmine
written by Jasmine

Museum of London Docklands Seeks Iconic Fashion Pieces for “Fashion City” Exhibition

Jewish Fashion Designers and Their Legacy

The Museum of London Docklands is embarking on an exciting mission to locate and showcase iconic fashion pieces created by Jewish designers who played a pivotal role in shaping London’s fashion scene throughout the 20th century. This upcoming exhibition, titled “Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style,” aims to shed light on the immense contributions of these often-overlooked creatives.

The Search for David Bowie’s Dress and More

One of the most sought-after items on the museum’s wish list is the legendary dress worn by David Bowie on the cover of his iconic 1970 album, “The Man Who Sold the World.” The museum is also eagerly looking for Sean Connery’s original James Bond shirts and any surviving gowns designed by the renowned Madame Isobel.

Mr. Fish: The Pioneer of Gender-Bending Designs

Among the Jewish designers featured in the “Fashion City” exhibition is the enigmatic Michael Fish, better known as Mr. Fish. Fish was renowned for his groundbreaking gender-bending creations, particularly his “man dress,” which became a favorite of celebrities like Mick Jagger and David Bowie. His designs continue to inspire contemporary fashion, as evidenced by the gender-fluid ensembles worn by celebrities such as Harry Styles.

Jewish Immigrants and the Fashion Industry

The exhibition delves into the personal stories behind the Jewish immigrants who played a significant role in London’s fashion and textile industries. An estimated 60 to 70 percent of Jewish immigrants in the early 20th century worked in these sectors, contributing to the city’s vibrant fashion scene.

Beyond Famous Names: A Diverse Representation

While the exhibition will undoubtedly showcase pieces by renowned designers like Cecil Gee, the Rahvis sisters, Madame Isobel, Otto Lucas, and Neymar, it also aims to highlight the contributions of lesser-known individuals. By using Jewishness as a lens to view London fashion, the museum hopes to reveal the vast and diverse impact of Jewish designers on the global fashion landscape.

Recreating the Past: Tailoring Workshop and Carnaby Street Boutique

In addition to showcasing original garments, the “Fashion City” exhibition will feature immersive recreations of a tailoring workshop from London’s East End and the interior of a stylish Carnaby Street boutique from the 1960s. These installations will provide visitors with a tangible sense of the era and the creative environment in which Jewish designers thrived.

Exhibition Details

The “Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style” exhibition will be on display at the Museum of London Docklands from October 13, 2023, to April 14, 2024. Visitors are encouraged to visit the museum’s website for more information and updates on the exhibition’s progress.

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