Aragvi: Moscow’s Legendary Restaurant of Spies and Celebrities
The Haunt of Soviet Elite
In the heart of Moscow, nestled on Tverskaya Ulitsa, stands Aragvi, a restaurant steeped in history and intrigue. During the Soviet era, Aragvi was the place to be seen for the cream of society, including movie stars, chess champions, cosmonauts, and even members of the feared KGB.
It was rumored that Lavrentiy Beria, Stalin’s chief of secret police, was a regular patron, often dining with Stalin’s son Vasily. British agent Kim Philby, who defected to the USSR in 1963, was also known to frequent Aragvi, drawn by its authentic Georgian cuisine.
A Culinary Oasis in Soviet Moscow
In a city where dining options were limited, Aragvi stood out as a culinary oasis. It was the only place in Moscow to get authentic Georgian food, featuring a 12-page menu with a wide variety of dishes.
The restaurant’s decadent atmosphere was captured by director Sergei Solovyov, who recalled being shocked by the lavish dishes served at Aragvi. “I can see it as if it were yesterday,” he said. “They brought our order of lobio, satsivi, shashlik, chicken livers, and caviar to the table… but I was so hungry that I fainted before the waiter brought our plates.”
A KGB Hotspot
Beyond its culinary reputation, Aragvi was also known as a haunt for KGB spies. According to former KGB agent Mikhail Lyubimov, most of the restaurant’s staff were retired KGB officers, and it was a prime recruiting ground for new spies. Farewell parties for agents going abroad were often held at Aragvi.
Lyubimov recalled a memorable night when “one of our men invited a beautiful woman to dance, not realizing she herself was a US spy and was being tailed by the KGB.”
Post-Soviet Transformation
After the fall of the Soviet Union, Aragvi changed hands several times and eventually closed in 2003. However, in 2018, the Tashir group and investor Gor Nakhapetyan invested heavily in restoring the restaurant to its former glory.
The main dining rooms still feature Soviet murals depicting tractors, workers, and sheaves of corn, but the menu has been updated to focus on authentic Black Sea cuisine, including dishes like khinkali dumplings and pkhali chopped salad.
Preserving the Legacy
While the restaurant’s ambiance has changed somewhat, the owners are keen to preserve its unique history. They hope to capitalize on Aragvi’s reputation as a meeting place for spies and celebrities, attracting diners who are curious about its Cold War past.
However, recreating the Cold War atmosphere exactly would be difficult. As Lyubimov notes, “Everything was bugged, you know? But everybody knew that if you were in Aragvi: don’t talk, keep quiet.”
A Culinary and Historical Landmark
Today, Aragvi remains a culinary and historical landmark in Moscow. It is a place where diners can experience authentic Georgian cuisine while immersing themselves in the city’s rich and complex past. From its humble beginnings as a favorite haunt of Soviet spies to its current status as a popular tourist destination, Aragvi continues to fascinate and intrigue visitors from all over the world.
