A Worldwide Quest for Barbecue: Exploring Cultures and Delights
Steven Raichlen’s Culinary Journey
Steven Raichlen, renowned barbecue expert and author, embarked on a global expedition in search of the world’s most captivating grilling experiences. His journey led him to far-flung destinations, where he discovered the diverse flavors and traditions that define barbecue around the globe.
Colombia: Beyond Beef
In Colombia, Raichlen’s pursuit of barbecue took an unexpected turn. Intrigued by the enigmatic dish known as lomo al trapo, he ventured to Bogotá, where he was introduced to a culinary landscape that extended far beyond beef.
Arepas, grilled cornmeal cakes, and exotic delicacies like grilled plantains and chiguiro (capybara) captivated his taste buds. At the renowned Andres Carne de Res, Raichlen marveled at the restaurant’s sprawling size and its immersive dining experience, complete with its own art department.
Exploring the Globe
Raichlen’s quest extended across 53 countries, including Azerbaijan, Cambodia, South Africa, and Serbia. Each destination offered unique insights into the cultural significance of barbecue.
In Azerbaijan, he witnessed the innovative use of vanilla ice cream, dipped in egg and coconut and grilled over a blazing fire. In Cambodia, he traced the ancient origins of grilling, discovering depictions of braziers and skewers in the Bayon temple complex.
At Angkor Wat, Raichlen found a bustling parking lot transformed into a culinary hub, where grilled river fish on skewers mirrored the scenes he had seen in the temple’s centuries-old artwork.
Barbecue: A Tapestry of Culture
Through his travels, Raichlen came to understand the profound connection between barbecue and human civilization. “Grilling has shaped who we are as a species,” he observes. “It was the catalyst that turned us from ape-like creatures into man.”
From the primitive techniques of cooking meat over embers to the modern advancements of high-tech grills, barbecue has evolved alongside humanity. It has become an integral part of our social gatherings, cultural celebrations, and culinary traditions.
Culinary Encounters
In Morocco, Raichlen met Hassan Bin Brik, the “grandfather” of grilling, who shared his knowledge of kofta, a traditional ground meat patty. In France, he learned the art of cooking mussels on a bed of pine needles ignited by the heat, a technique that imparted a unique smoky flavor.
Victor Arguinzoniz, the “mad scientist of barbecue” in Axpe, Spain, amazed Raichlen with his mastery of grilling bread with smoked butter and kokotxas a la brasa, grilled hake throats.
A Window into the Human Soul
Raichlen believes that barbecue offers a glimpse into the essence of a culture. “Tell me what you grill and I’ll tell you who you are,” he says, paraphrasing the 18th-century philosopher Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin.
Through his culinary adventures, Raichlen has gained a profound appreciation for the diversity of human experiences and the common threads that connect us all. Barbecue, he argues, is a universal language that transcends boundaries and brings people together.
